Travel review of the Great Egyptian Museum

If nothing fascinates as much as ancient civilizations, there is something unique and captivating about the pyramids of Egypt. “I can’t think of another place on the planet with a greater density of tangible history: more than 100 pyramids in the north, mind-boggling temples in the south, and in between lots of tombs and museums packed with artifacts,” says Eric Monkaba, who his company TripScaper tailors travel itineraries for private clients and previously lived in Cairo.

Egypt is one of the oldest civilizations in the world, but it is experiencing a tourist boom that is very current. The country welcomed a record 14.9 million international visitors last year; expects to have 25,000 hotel rooms by the end of this year; and two years ago added a second airport, called the Sphinx, near the pyramids. A Mandarin Oriental is scheduled to open in the near future, and Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, which already has two hotels in Cairo, will add a third hotel there in 2025 and another in Luxor in 2026. There are also several new Nile boats, from boho-chic to ultra-luxe, including the Yalla Nile by architect Tarek Shamma, who has designed boutiques and homes for Christian Louboutin.

A compelling exhibition in the museum.

Louboutin, who only learned as an adult that he is half Egyptian, has a house in Luxor as well as a boat on the Nile. “I was always interested and attracted to Cairo because it is a city with a lot of energy – and that energy comes from the people, and the Egyptian people are incredibly kind,” he says. The biggest news in Egypt, however, is the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), an architectural wonder estimated at a billion dollars on a 300-acre site on the Giza Plateau, near the pyramids and about a 25-minute drive from Cairo. Billed as the “largest archaeological museum dedicated to a single civilization,” it will reportedly display more than 100,000 artifacts in its gallery space. If only visitors could see them all. The GEM, designed by Irish firm Heneghan Peng Architects, is only partially open; There have been rumors of a grand opening for years, but it has been postponed due to the pandemic and various local and global conflicts. Those visiting today can book tours of the atrium, a towering space anchored by a monumental statue of Ramses II that stands over 43 feet tall and more than 3,000 years old. The tour also includes the six-story Grand Staircase, lined with more than 60 artifacts, including royal statues and sarcophagi.

Set Nefru is a carefully restored ship that offers tailor-made tours.

“We call it a destination. It is a huge complex,” notes Saida El Harakany, director of cultural programming at Legacy Development and Management, which won the government bid to operate the museum. It only takes up about 30 percent of the entire site, she explains: “We have an auditorium, a cinema, art gallery spaces, exhibition spaces and shops representing the best Egyptian designers. You can come and shop, eat, see a movie, see a play, go to an art exhibition and go to the galleries and learn about ancient Egypt.” A hotel has been built, but the operator has not yet been announced. The art world is increasingly paying attention to Egyptian artists, both at home and abroad. The first edition of Art d’Egypte’s art event ‘Forever Is Now’ debuted in 2021 and was organized by French-Egyptian curator Nadine Abdel Ghaffar, in the presence of Pharrell Williams. The exhibition, which was held every autumn at the pyramids, attracted more than 800,000 visitors last year. This year, the Egyptian Pavilion at the Venice Biennale, featuring the work of artist Wael Shawky, received critical acclaim and was cited by some as one of the Biennale’s best, raising the country’s profile as an emerging arts destination.

Christian Louboutin’s Luxor House.

El Harakany says that the GEM, even in its not fully open state, has already boosted the local economy, plus the country’s image and brand in the world at large. But perhaps even more important is its effect on the citizenry. “(The GEM) revives Egyptians’ sense of pride in their culture and heritage, and connects them to their history,” she said. “If Egyptians are not proud of their culture, how will anyone else be?”

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This article will appear in the October 2024 issue of ELLE.

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Rima Suqi is a New York City-based journalist and producer whose bylines have appeared in The New Yorker, The New York Times, HTSI, Gallery, Elle Decorand many others. The Chicago native has written several books, including the best-selling American fashion designers at home (2010, CFDA/Assouline). Her travels have taken her to 43 countries, including Mexico, which remains a perennial favorite.