Eagle eyes spot eagles on Eagle View Trail – Making Tracks

J.P. Squire – Jul 14, 2024 / 4:00 am | Story: 497069

Photo: J.P. Squire

Beside the Quail Flume Trail are the remnants of concrete flumes constructed by Central Okanagan Lands Ltd. in the early 1900s. In all, 34 miles of concrete ditches, flumes and steel pipelines created a gravity-fed water supply from the Mill Creek watershed (including Postill and South lakes) east of Kelowna International Airport.

Hundreds of thousands now know about the Okanagan Rail Trail but how many have heard of the Quail Flume and Eagle View trails?

The ORT is the superhighway of Okanagan trails, comparable to the KVR Trail’s Little Tunnel and Skaha Lake segments. Quail Flume and Eagle View, on the other hand, are two of the valley’s little gems, secret trails known only to neighbours, UBCO students and, of course, eagles.

The Sheriff learned about the gravel trails between UBC Okanagan and the Quail Ridge residential community/golf course from horseback riders who used the trails for years before Quail Ridge Linear Park was established by the City of Kelowna.

The posted trail map for the linear park is a little dated (pre-2018) because it shows a future John Hindle Drive between Glenmore Road and UBCO. It also doesn’t show Quail Flume Trail connecting to UBCO’s Pine Loop at the south end. Pine Loop (1.6 kilometres) starts on the driveway to parking lot W on Discovery Avenue, between the Upper Campus Health and daycare buildings. Pine Loop eventually loops back to the north end of Discovery Avenue. The new version of the online the campus map shows Pine Loop as an unnamed dotted yellow line, missing the previous trail names and trailheads.

Head north on Pine Loop (behind the daycare) and it connects directly to Quail Flume Trail just past the campus trails map sign (also outdated). As you pass the fence at the rear of the day care, watch for pre-school toys. Like the Sheriff, toss them back over the fence to the giggling youngsters and hope they don’t throw them back.

Quail Flume Trail is steeped in Okanagan history because it follows a short section of the concrete V-shaped flume built by Central Okanagan Lands Ltd. in the early 1900s to distribute water to Glenmore Valley farms. The total length of Quail Flume Trail is 3.3 kilometres with an elevation change of only 10 metres.

Photo: Contributed

This outdated map of Quail Ridge Linear Park posted at the Quail Crescent trailhead illustrates both Eagle View and Quail Flume trails. The south end of the linear park connects to UBCO’s Pine Loop which has trailheads behind Upper Campus Health/day care and the north end of Discovery Avenue.

At the north end of Quail Flume Trail, past The Okanagan Golf Club and a small play structure, a trail to your right leads to a trailhead and small parking lot on Quail Crescent in the Quail Ridge subdivision. However, your best experience is to turn left onto Eagle View Trail which takes you back south toward UBCO.

A short distance down the trail, watch for orange flagging tape on bushes to your right. If you line up the four pieces of flagging tape, they point across a power line to a large tree. Two-thirds of the way up the tree is a huge bald eagle nest where you can see young birds every spring. Recently, two white plastic bags were added below the nest, perhaps to draw attention to the it. Local residents say juvenile eagles learn to fly by flapping up and down Eagle View Trail.

Further south, you will find a large pond or reservoir with a line of five dead trees along its south shoreline, a favourite perch for bald eagles, perhaps looking for something edible in the pond.

At a trail fork is the start to what the Sheriff nicknamed the Eagle View Trail Loop. You can go left on the loop to return directly to Quail Flume Trail (steep uphill, perhaps walk your bike). But if you head right, Eagle View Loop loops back to the fork for a longer route. The best time to hike or bike these trails is in May when thousands of arrow leaf balsamroot are flowering. It’s become a tradition for the Sheriff and CCC to go there several times every spring to get the timing right.

It’s paid parking at lot W, so the Sheriff and CCC cycle there from the multi-use pathway on John Hindle Drive. Take Upper Campus Way to Discovery Avenue. You can also get to John Hindle Drive from the UBCO underpass on the Okanagan Rail Trail. It’s a nice way to cap off an ORT ride from downtown Kelowna or Rutland. The other option is to drive to the Quail Crescent trailhead.

“I haven’t yet walked the Eagle View Trail, but that is wonderful to know there is a bald eagle nest there,” said Abigail Riley, associate director of UBCO campus planning, who provided information about UBCO trails. “We are definitely blessed at UBCO, and in the Okanagan generally, with the great privilege of experiencing wildlife so readily in our daily lives.”

Behind the Engineering, Management and Education building on Alumni Avenue is the Old Pond Trail around the campus’s naturalized stormwater pond, she said, describing it as largely naturalized and quite lovely. In a larger circle around that is the Snowberry Loop, a paved walking circuit. The public is welcome to use any of the campus trails or walkways.

•••

A regular column reader had a word of caution about the use of alltrails.com, which has been mentioned in several Making Tracks columns.

“The big problem is that some of the trails it describes are on private land or other closed areas where people should not be going” said the reader.

“I was reminded of this recently when we were contacted by Environment and Climate Change Canada pointing out that one of the trails we followed from alltrails.com cuts through a National Wildlife Area parcel (through) which public access is prohibited. Someone was looking over our shoulder. Perhaps you could mention that users should confirm information from www.alltrails.com.”

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.

J.P. Squire – Jul 7, 2024 / 4:00 am | Story: 495836

Photo: J.P. Squire

The Corral Trail at Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park connects the “Red Gate” trailhead with the beach at Cosens Bay. Although this popular trail is labelled as green, or easy, it has a steep descent and several switchbacks so many cyclists walk their bikes around its curves and the final narrow path to the bay.

Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park has several candidates for this introductory trails series, but a favourite is Comin’ Round the Mountain, located on the popular Vernon-area park’s northern edge.

The Sheriff and Constant Companion Carmen (and multiple friends) park at the so-called “Red Gate” trailhead on Kidston Road.

(Hint: The Sheriff always recommends taking a photo of the trail map whenever possible so you have it on your cell phone and can zoom in if you need clarification at a trail junction.)

From the Red Gate’s trail map, a short distance up the Corral Trail (watch on your left) is the start of Comin’ Round the Mountain, a gentle up-and-down trail with numerous panoramic views of Vernon to the north. A bench with a great perspective is partway down the trail and is a perfect snack break.

A word of caution, the descent to the Cosens Bay parking lot can be challenging and remember, you have to climb back up if you plan to do an out-and-back hike or bike ride, returning to the Red Gate by the same route.

Also, a reminder from the Sheriff, trails look completely different depending on your direction so it’s like two trails in one if you are doing an out-and-back. You can stop at the bench on your way back if you want that snack or lunch later in your outing.

The Sheriff and CCC have done the out-and-back numerous times over the years but they usually add in the trail down to Cosens Bay for lunch. And then back up to the Cozens Bay parking lot and up again to Comin’ Round the Mountain.

Photo: Contributed

BC Parks postd this topographic map of Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park at the Red Gate and Cosens Bay trailheads. The popular Comin’ Round the Mountain Trail follows the northern boundary of the park and connects the two trailheads.

However, if you are up for a more of a challenge, Corral Trail will take you from the Red Gate down to Cosens Bay. Caution: Corral, rated green believe it or not, is steep with switchbacks heading south down to lake level. The Sheriff walks his e-bike down several sections, including the final, narrow descent to Cosens Bay.

Your reward is, without doubt, one of the finest views in the Okanagan Valley. The Sheriff has climbed Corral Trail from Cosens Bay numerous times (thank heavens for his e-bike’s “walk” function) but you face into the hill while focusing on the steep climb.

Coming down, as suggested, you have that incredible view in front of you the entire way. It’s the same kind of view, to a lesser extent, when you are taking the Cosens Bay Trail from the Cosens Bay parking lot down to the bay. The lake view is always right in front of you.

Alltrails.com—always a great source of information—describes Comin’ Round the Mountain (hiking) as follows: “8.5-km loop trail near Coldstream. Generally considered a moderately challenging route, it takes an average of two hours, 35 minutes to complete. This is a popular trail for birding, hiking and horseback riding, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. The best times to visit this trail are March through October.”

In addition, “it is a great loop with a little bit of everything—climbs, long downhills, mountaintop views of the lake, switchbacks and a beach. Going in either direction will have its challenges and steep sections. There are beautiful views of Kalamalka Lake and of Coldstream. As a mountain bike run, there are some nice and flowing downhill runs with a bit of technical terrain through the trees.”

BC Parks also says about the park: “Nestled along the Coldstream Valley bordering the District of Coldstream, this fine example of North Okanagan grassland is dotted with ponderosa pine and groves of Douglas fir. The spring wildflower show is truly spectacular. The largely-undeveloped park has an all-season appeal to those interested in its natural setting.

“A variety of animals, birds, reptiles and plant life reside in a mosaic of grassland communities. To date, 432 varieties of vascular plants have been identified in the park, rare for such a small area. This peaceful park is ideal for the study and appreciation of natural history all year-round.”

One of the favourite outings for the Sheriff and CCC is kayaking from Kekuli Bay Provincial Park across the lake and following the east shoreline north to Cosens Bay. Then, return by paddling west along the Cosens Bay shoreline, crossing to the west side of the lake and admiring the beautiful yellow and orange cliffs above the Okanagan Rail Trail.

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Here is a follow-up to the June 23 column about Myra Canyon.

It was posted on the Friends of South Slopes (FOSS) Facebook page June 29 by Cabin Resource Management in regardis to the Myra Canyon Trestles.

“After six months of work, starting in the fall of 2023, our Rec team has completed the re-decking of the Myra Canyon Trestles in Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park. This project was completed with B.C. Parks and involved 3,800 square-metres of decking with a grand total of 59,148 five-inch Ardox spiral nails, which equals a whopping 473,184 hammer swings!

“Tackling these monumental structures was an incredible achievement, and looking across the canyon, it was hard not to think of the pioneers who first carved out this line over 100 years ago.

“We’re proud to add our name to the many who have contributed to the restoration of these historic trestles to ensure that future generations can enjoy a piece of our province’s history. But more than that, we’re proud to be able to be a part of improving safety for the community, and tourists, to access this outdoor space. We sure enjoyed working up here, and hope you can get out and walk in the footsteps of history too!”

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.

J.P. Squire – Jun 29, 2024 / 4:00 am | Story: 494782

Photo: J.P. Squire

Kal/Crystal Waters Trail, uphill of the northern section of the Okanagan Rail Trail, has several benches and unobstructed views of Kalamalka Lake and off in the distance, the Oyama isthmus.

And now, for something completely different…

Hundreds of thousands of people (and thousands of their dogs) have enjoyed the Okanagan Rail Trail, from Kelowna to Coldstream, in the six years since the $30-million recreational investment officially opened on Sept. 27, 2018. However, only a relatively few venture into more challenging introductory trails territory, such as the Kal/Crystal Waters Trail, an alternative to the rail trail’s northern section.

“The view and ambiance of this trail are distinctive but complementary to the Okanagan Rail Trail. And together, they create a fantastic way to experience Kalamalka Lake and nature in the North Okanagan,” says Bob Fleming, chair of the Greater Vernon Advisory Committee, who played a key role in bringing this trail to life. Flemming is very passionate about it and holds it close to his heart.

“The southern 1.5 kilometres of trail weave through unique forest habitats which include diverse and distinctive ecologies. It is somewhat more challenging but is worth the effort.”

All the signs are there on the Okanagan Rail Trail but perhaps the steep incline off the rail trail 3.3 kilometres south of Kekuli Bay Provincial Park scares them off. The trail sign there incorrectly says Kal/Crystal Waters Trail is only 3.3 kilometres long. That just brings you to the western boundary of the provincial park.

In fact, the trail off the Okanagan Rail Trail is actually just a short offshoot, or connection trail, of Kal/Crystal Waters Trail. The southern trailhead is on Crystal Waters Road to the south. Hence, Crystal Waters Trail, with “Kal” thrown in because it’s above Kalamalka Lake.

Photo: J.P. Squire

This map at the Kilometre Zero trailhead on College Way shows Kal/Crystal Waters Trail on the west side of the Okanagan Rail Trail from its short connection trail off the ORT past Kekuli Bay Provincial Park to the Vernon campus of Okanagan College.

The Sheriff and Constant Companion Carmen have only climbed or descended the Crystal Waters Road end a few times because of its very steep hill. The parks department of the Regional District of North Okanagan even posted a sign suggesting cyclists dismount when descending. The Sheriff jokes: “Some trails you only do once.” This is one of them.”

By comparison, they always ride up the long steep hill off the Okanagan Rail Trail – full power, low gear on e-bikes. Don’t wait until you are on the hill to gear down. That’s too late.

However, the trail does flatten out and at the top, the main trail to your left goes to Crystal Waters Road. Soon, you discover the trail’s history. It’s the old, narrow original highway. And you shake you head when you consider they used to bring horses and wagons up here.

(Caution: It is more challenging than the “superhighway” rail trail with sections of ancient ruptured asphalt in-between its wide gravel path through the forest.)

At several benches, you can relax and quietly enjoy the panoramic views of Kalamalka Lake from a hillside perspective. compared to the busy lake-level rail rail.

It might appear Kal/Crystal Waters Trail ends when you reach a large gravel parking lot at the intersection of Bailey Road and Highway 97 but at the north end of the parking lot, the trail continues downhill with two side trails over to Kekuli Bay Provincial Park. You can pause there for a snack break, lunch, the washrooms or rejoin the Okanagan Rail Trail (for a shorter outing).

A new tunnel under Highway 97 provides access to Bailey Road, the community of Predator Ridge and Sparkling Hills Resort.

(Another caution: Walk your bikes through the tunnel to avoid smacking your head into its low corrugated ceiling or coming to an abrupt halt when the cyclist riding ahead of you stops due to the tunnel uphill incline. Been there, done that.)

The Sheriff and CCC stay on Kal/Crystal Waters down to High Ridge Road, the access road to the provincial park. Still heading north, now on a tar-and-gravel road, turn right onto Kalamalka Lakeview Drive. Left goes back to the four-lane Highway 97.

Long-time Okanagan Valley residents will recognize Kalamalka Lakeview Drive as the original two-lane Highway 97 before the four-lane “superhighway” was built up the hillside. Those long-time residents will remember almost everyone stopping at the then-popular Kal Lake Lookout, a pullout with spectacular views of Kalamalka Lake in front of you and to the south, and of Coldstream Valley to the east. Its large parking lot now sits empty most days.More history is on the plaque there.

The Coldstream Valley’s potential was seen by Forbes and Charles Vernon in 1863, when travelling to their silver claim 64 kilometres (40 miles) to the east. In 1864, the brothers preempted 405 fertile hectares, which became Coldstream Ranch. Its products ranged from stage coach horses to vegetables and hops. At one time, the ranch had Canada’s largest orchard.

At the north end of the Kal Lake Lookout, by the washrooms, the trail continues down a steep narrow path to the subdivision on Lakeview Drive. Straight ahead is Kickwillie Loop Road down to the rail trail and its new parking lot and washroom.

Five years ago, a new section of Kal/Crystal Waters Trail opened to connect to the Vernon campus of Okanagan College and Greater Vernon Athletic Park. A short trail traverses the college property heading south, next to Highway 97, to the dead end of Varsity Drive and after that, Lakeview Drive.

Access and parking are available at several locations: Kekuli Bay Provincial Park, Bailey Road parking lot, Kal Lake Lookout and Greater Vernon Athletic Park/Okanagan College. You can also take the College Way multi-use path down to Kalamalka Road (and new Coldstream Station).

And a fine tip: The Sheriff likes to stand on his pedals on downhills (like standing in a saddle’s stirrups).

Kal/Crystal Waters was exhilarating when heading north for years and back on the rail trail—until he tried heading south on Kal/Crystal Waters. That’s just as great.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.

J.P. Squire – Jun 23, 2024 / 4:00 am | Story: 493592

Photo: J.P. Squire

The Myra Canyon section of the former Kettle Valley Railway has 16 wood trestles, two steel spans and two rock tunnels in the 12 kilometres between the Myra and Ruth stations south of the city of Kelowna.

The spectacular Myra Canyon section of the former Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) is, according to Michael Haynes, author of The Best of The Great Trail, the best part of the 28,000-kilometre Trans Canada Trai—the longest network of multi-use recreational trails in the world.

This summer, visitors will discover a major improvement as part of a $1.6-million investment by B.C. Parks. Cabin Operations Ltd. just completed re-decking of all 18 trestles, while widening their decks to go from railing to railing. Since 2008, only the middle part of the trestles had decking, with the exposed timbers on both sides making it challenging for walking or pushing a bike while passing other visitors. Also, in May, two new pit toilets were installed at Myra Station parking lot which will be expanded.

The Sheriff has described Myra Canyon as the ultimate combination of man-made marvel and Mother Nature at her finest. Its 16 wood trestles, two huge steel spans and two rock tunnels precariously hang on the edge of a deep canyon, with panoramic views of Okanagan Lake and the city of Kelowna below.

And it’s popular. The 2023 visitor counts for Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park were: Myra Station, 24,380, Ruth Station, 7,638 and Stewart Road East, 22,104.

The Sheriff has had a 40-year love affair with Myra. In so many respects, his recreational and journalistic history in the Okanagan is mirrored in its modern history.

May 1980: He was hired as senior reporter at The Kelowna Daily Courier, just as the CPR began removing rails and ties from Midway to Penticton and turning the right-of-way over to the province.

He wrote numerous stories as the non-profit Kettle Valley Railway Heritage Society in Kelowna tried unsuccessfully to raise $10 million to buy the rails and ties to establish a tourist train attraction similar to the Kettle Valley Steam Railway in Summerland.

Photo: Contributed

This Myra Canyon trail map illustrates that this 12-kilometre route between Myra and Ruth stations is like three fingers of a hand with major trestles at the fingertips over KLO and Pooley Creeks. The canyon also has the only S-shaped trestle in Canada. Trestles 1 and 18 are 8.5 kilometres apart.

Several society members owned “speeders,” a railroad maintenance cart powered by a one-cylinder engine, which sounds like “putt-putt-putt.” The Sheriff was lucky as he became one of the last people to ride the original rails. As they smoothly click-click-clicked over the steel rail junctions, the Sheriff thought: “This is the way this incredible canyon and ‘McCulloch’s Wonder’ are meant to be experienced.”

He rode his Honda CB750K motorcycle up Myra and Little White forest service roads to report on CP’s removal of rails and ties but couldn’t figure out why his street bike kept stalling. It turns out those roads were so bumpy potholes shook the acid out of the battery.

After that, the Sheriff in his red Land Rover, and many others, began driving through the canyon, thump-thump-thumping over the trestles until vandals started throwing their timbers over the side creating huge gaps.

From 1993 to 1995: After the provincial government considered closing the canyon due to serious injuries suffered by those attempting to cross the trestles, the Myra Canyon Trestle Restoration Society (MCTRS) was established. Volunteers spent three summers using donated lumber to nail down decking and attach handrails to all 18 spans.

May 10, 1994: As improvements proceeded, 26-year-old Kelowna cyclist Carol Faye Fingler fell to her death from a trestle that had yet to yet to be improved. The Sheriff—tears in his eyes—took a photo of her bike, its front wheel twisted, as her body was carried off the trestle. A memorial cairn, decorated with flowers and a bicycle helmet, marked the spot.

January 2003: In a stroke of unknowing genius, the MCTRS convinced the National Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada to designate Myra as a place of national historic significance.

Mid-August 2003: A lightning strike in Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park sparked a massive wildfire that destroyed 12 wooden trestles and damaged the two steel spans (as well burning down more than 220 homes in nearby Kelowna).

2004 to 2008: The 12 trestles were rebuilt and two steel spans re-timbered, all with decks and handrails, with $17.5 million in mostly-federal funding (as a national heritage site) and a provincial grant (to use B.C. wood).

June 22, 2008: The Sheriff donned a top hat and tails to play the role of CPR president Sir Thomas Shaughnessy at the official opening of Myra Canyon.

November 2017: MCTRS was awarded the B.C. Parks’ 2016 Volunteer Group of the Year Award.

There are two accesses to the Myra Canyon, the east end, via Myra Station is located 24 kilometres from downtown Kelowna, a 40-minute drive up Myra forest service road off McCulloch Road, and the west end, via Ruth Station (named after one of chief design/construction engineer Andrew McCulloch’s daughters), up June Springs Road and the Little White forest service road.

McCulloch creatively hung the highest KVR section, at an elevation of 1,280 metres, on the sides of a steep canyon less than a kilometre wide using nearly 11 kilometres of track. Completed in 1914, he commented that he had never seen a railway built in such difficult conditions. His engineers aptly nicknamed it “McCulloch’s Wonder.”

In addition to clearing fallen trees, boulders and brush, maintaining the trail and adding storm shelters and benches, the trestle restoration society also added another objective to its mandate—preservation and enhancement of the cultural heritage of Myra Canyon.

It partnered with UBC Okanagan to sponsor archaeological digs at two of the original construction camps in 2007 and 2008. Morrissey Camp is now open to the public and brush clearing is underway to access the Huissi Camp.

Lacking new and younger volunteers, however, the MCTRS turned its remaining funds and records over to the Friends of the South Slopes (FOSS) last year, although many members continue to work in the canyon through FOSS.

For more information about the canyon and the KVR’s history, go here.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.